A dermatologist argues that micro-needling actually improves the look of acne scars — no matter your skin tone — by stimulating the repair and growth of collagen.

But you can’t really erase dark or rough acne scars with the available over-the-counter derma rollers, as their short 0.2 to 0.5 mm needle lengths can’t reach the scar tissue and repair it. For that, you’ll have to visit the dermatologist’s office or go to a medical spa where the 1.5 to 2 mm-long needles can penetrate through the scar tissue, break up the melanocytes that cause hyperpigmentation, and promote re-healing.